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wood fence installation Beaverton
Wood Fence Installation

Wood Fence Installation in Beaverton, OR

Custom western red cedar and pressure-treated wood fences engineered for the wet Pacific Northwest. Privacy, semi-privacy, and boundary fencing built to last 15–25 years.

Free estimates 24/7 Licensed, bonded & insured Beaverton & Washington County
Open 24/7Call any time for a wood fence quote
Licensed & InsuredActive Oregon CCB, bonded & insured
Beaverton + Washington CountyLocal crews across the metro

Wood fencing built for Beaverton's climate

A wood fence is still the most popular choice for Beaverton homes — warm, natural, and flexible enough for privacy, semi-privacy, or a simple boundary line. But our wet Pacific Northwest climate is hard on timber. Constant rain, damp soil, and big seasonal moisture swings cause cheap lumber to rot, warp, and lean within a few years. Beaverton Fence Pro builds wood fences the right way for this region: the right species, ground-rated or steel posts set in concrete, and details that keep moisture off the wood so your fence stays straight and solid for the long haul.

We install board-on-board, dog-ear picket, good-neighbor, stockade, and split-rail fences across Beaverton and Washington County. A well-built, well-maintained western red cedar fence here lasts roughly 15 to 25 years. We back every job with active Oregon CCB licensing, liability coverage, and workers' compensation, so you're protected from the first post to the final picket.

Materials

The wood we install

The best wood for a fence in the Pacific Northwest is one that handles moisture without breaking the budget.

Western red cedar

Naturally rot- and insect-resistant thanks to its own oils — no pressure treatment needed. Warm tone, dimensionally stable, and our top pick for privacy and picket fences here.

Pressure-treated pine

A budget-friendly structural material chemically treated to resist rot. We often pair pressure-treated posts and rails with cedar pickets to cut cost without giving up looks.

Ground-rated & steel posts

Posts do the hard work. We use ground-contact-rated lumber or galvanized steel posts set in concrete over a gravel base so water drains away instead of pooling around the footing.

Wood fence styles & heights

The style sets the look, the privacy, and a lot of the cost. We build all of the common Beaverton styles and help you pick the one that fits your yard, your budget, and your neighbors:

  • Board-on-board — overlapping pickets that stay fully private even as the wood moves; clean and substantial.
  • Dog-ear picket — the classic, economical privacy fence with the familiar angled picket top.
  • Good-neighbor — alternating pickets so the fence looks finished and identical from both sides.
  • Stockade — tightly butted pickets for maximum solid coverage.
  • Split-rail — open, rustic boundary fencing for larger or rural-style lots.

Most homeowners choose a 6 ft standard privacy height. A 4 ft semi-privacy fence suits front yards and pet containment, and we build to 8 ft where Beaverton code allows. Every style can include a cap rail and a kickboard (rot board) to protect the picket bottoms.

Process

How we install a wood fence that stays straight

Fence posts that don't rot or lean come down to drainage and footing discipline. Here's our build.

  1. Measure & layout. We mark the line, locate property corners, and plan post spacing at no more than ~8 ft on center — closer where stability or wind calls for it.
  2. Set the posts. Ground-contact-rated or galvanized steel posts go into concrete footings over a gravel base so water drains down instead of sitting against the wood.
  3. Hang the rails. Top, middle, and bottom rails are squared and leveled to the posts to carry the pickets without sag.
  4. Install pickets above grade. We hold the picket bottoms about 2 in. above the soil to stop ground-moisture from wicking up and rotting the boards early.
  5. Finish details. Cap rail, kickboard, and gates go on, the site is cleaned, and we walk the line with you.

A typical residential wood fence takes one to three days depending on length, terrain, and the number of gates.

Ready for a new wood fence?

Call Beaverton Fence Pro for a free, no-pressure estimate — we answer 24/7 and build across Beaverton and Washington County.

(855) 598-3288

cedar privacy fence Beaverton backyard

Permits, setbacks & why homeowners choose us

Before we dig, we check Beaverton and Washington County fence height and setback rules and confirm your property lines, so your fence is compliant and sits where it should. In most residential yards a back-yard fence up to 6 ft and a front-yard fence up to about 3–4 ft don't need a permit, but we verify the current rules for your lot every time.

  • Active Oregon CCB license, bonded & fully insured
  • Local crews who know Beaverton soil, rain & code
  • Honest cost guidance — priced by linear foot, height, material, terrain & gates
  • 24/7 scheduling and free on-site estimates

What your wood fence project includes

  • On-site assessment of terrain, drainage, and your existing fence line.
  • Style & material guidance — cedar vs pressure-treated, height, and layout for your goals.
  • Old fence removal & haul-away when you're replacing — see our wood fence replacement service.
  • Matching gates with sag-proof hardware, plus optional cap rail and rot board.

Looking for a fully secluded backyard? Our cedar privacy fence installation goes deeper on board-on-board and tongue-and-groove builds. Want a modern look? Ask about a horizontal cedar fence. You can also browse all of our fencing services in Beaverton or check coverage with fencing in Central Beaverton.

What drives the price of a wood fence in Beaverton

Wood fences are quoted by the linear foot, and that per-foot number moves with a handful of real factors rather than a single sticker price. Height is the biggest lever: a 6 ft privacy fence uses far more lumber than a 4 ft semi-privacy run, and an 8 ft fence where code allows jumps again. Material matters next — full western red cedar costs more than a cedar-picket-on-pressure-treated-post combination, and kiln-dried cedar runs higher than green stock but moves and warps less as it dries. Terrain, gate count, and the number of corners round out the estimate. A flat, straight back line is cheap to build; a sloped Cooper Mountain lot that needs stepped or raked panels, several gates, and multiple corners takes more posts, more labor, and more material waste, so the per-foot rate climbs.

Proper post setting is what keeps the fence standing

Most wood fences that fail in the Pacific Northwest don't fail at the pickets — they fail at the posts. Saturated Beaverton soil holds water against untreated wood all winter, and a post set in a bare hole or in concrete with no drainage will rot at the base and lean within a few years. We set ground-contact-rated lumber or galvanized steel posts in concrete over a gravel base so groundwater drains down and away from the footing instead of pooling against the wood. Posts go in at no more than roughly 8 ft on center, closer where wind or a long span calls for it, and picket bottoms are held about 2 in. above grade so soil moisture can't wick up and rot the boards from below. A cap rail sheds rain off the picket tops and a kickboard, or rot board, takes the splash at the bottom. Those details cost a little more up front and are the difference between a fence that lasts 15 to 25 years and one that needs replacing in seven.

Why a licensed local builder is worth it

Oregon requires fence contractors to carry an active CCB license, which means liability coverage and workers' compensation are in place before anyone digs on your property. An unlicensed crew working off the books leaves you exposed if someone is hurt or the work goes wrong, and there's no real recourse when a fence starts leaning the next rainy season. A local builder also knows what this ground does — how the clay holds water, where setbacks and height limits land in Beaverton and Washington County, and how to time the stain or seal so the finish actually absorbs after the cedar has dried out. That regional knowledge, paired with proper footing and species selection, is what separates a fence built for the catalog from one built for this climate.

Quick Answers

Wood fence FAQs

Straight answers — no clicking around.

Should I stain or seal my new cedar fence, and how soon?
Cedar can be left to weather to a natural silver-gray, or sealed to hold its warm color and add water resistance. If you want to stain or seal, the usual advice is to let a new cedar fence dry out for a few weeks to a couple of months so the finish absorbs properly, then re-coat every few years.
Can you match or tie into my neighbor's existing fence line?
Yes. We regularly tie new fencing into an existing neighbor's line, match the height and style as closely as the materials allow, and build a clean transition. We'll also confirm the property line first so the new section sits where it belongs.
What's the difference between board-on-board and good-neighbor style?
Board-on-board overlaps the pickets on one side so the fence stays fully private even as the wood expands and contracts. Good-neighbor alternates pickets from one side of the rails to the other, so the fence looks identical and finished from both yards. Board-on-board is more private; good-neighbor is more symmetrical.
Do you remove and haul away my old fence?
Yes. When you're replacing an old fence we tear out the old posts and panels, haul everything away, and dispose of it, then set fresh posts for the new build. Removal and disposal are quoted as part of the estimate.

Free wood fence estimate — call now

Get a straight answer on materials, style, and timeline from a licensed Beaverton fence builder. Open 24/7.

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